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Triking Alaska's
Dalton Highway

TADH

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March 2024

Saturday 01 March 2024

Our first night at Tall Timbers was a pleasantly peaceful one after the trucks coming down the hill just over the fence with their exhaust brakes on had finished their day, and the 26 other campers in here also kept the peace. Waking to a cool 10 degree day we locked up the van and took off for a days exploring.

Taking a slightly different route than the straight Tarkine Drive, we passed through Scotstown and Irish Town and the many cattle farms along the way, and our first stop was the Trowcutta Arch. Once a cave it is now a hole in the ground with an arch at the approach, courtesy of the roof falling somewhere back in the earths past.

Passing through some hilly farming country (did I tell you Tassie is HILLY!) and then a small timber plantation we arrived to an empty carpark. We walked the short track through the bush as the sun was beginning to rise, and small pockets of light pierced the canopy to providing small intimate scenes within the expanse of trees and ferns. Being the first ones there meant that we had the place to ourselves for a while, perfect for taking photographs.

Trowutta Arch 1

Our first glimpse of the arch and pool, soft reflected light showing the way.

Trowutta Arch 2

Looking down into the pool from underneath the arch.

Trowutta Arch 3

Looking back up from the waters edge.

Trowutta Arch Ferns

One of many small fern scenes along the way.

Leaving the arch we joined the Tarkine Tourist Drive. Now, while there are quite a few things to see along this route, it really is a nice long drive that winds its way through the forest. There are signs about the endangered Tassie Devil and speed limits along the areas they frequent, but we didn't see any, and in fact we saw lots and lots of road kill pademelon wallabies and only two or three live ones.

Sinkhole

The sinkhole.

Up hill, down dale, round and round, the road was continually changing, and not a good one for anyone who may feel the effects of car sickness. Coming to an intersection we made a last minute decision to go off the main track and head up what used to be a sealed road. Slowly dodging the pot holes, washouts and the like we arrived at the carpark for the Dempster Button Grass Lookout.

Waking the short 5 minute return track we arrived at a viewing platform and were greeted with this view. We spent some time there watching the light dance across the landscape as the passing clouds let the light through, and then made our way back down the track to the main road.

Dempster Lookout

Dempster Lookout View

Leaving the forest behind we arrived back at the coast and checked out a few spots where people had their off grid fishing and holiday shacks along the ruggedly rocky coast.

Stopping at the Edge of the World, we were greeted with a small carpark (and a dump point a whiz bang would have trouble getting to) and a boardwalk to a small lookout. We got there at the perfect time because there were lots and lots of people coming in behind us!

Edge of the World

One of the views of the Edge of the World.

Having not fallen off the edge, we made our way through the small locality of Arthur River, passing the general store and caravan park on our way out, heading for Marrawah, where we had been told to go and see the beach.

Coming into town we made our way along the gravel road until we came to an awesome spot down on the coast, where, despite the wind and some rain, we spent a little time enjoying the waves crash over the rocks.

Marrawah Beach

These rocks were taking a pounding.

Heading back towards town we stopped at Green Point where there is a small free camp at the top of the dune overlooking the carpark, toilets and boardwalk down onto a very nice beach.

By now we were getting rather tired, so made a beeline for camp, passing through more dairy farming before arriving back at camp.

Saturday 02 March 2024

After yesterday's drive we took a day off today and generally did not much at all other than Joanne taking a drive into town to do some food shopping.

Sunday 03 March 2024

Overnight the rain and the wind came in, and while the rain eventually disappeared, the wind, forecast to be 30-50 km/h remained. With a stay of 3 days only allowed it was our time to move on, and so, after packing up we left the 35 odd campers to their day and headed East, hoping to take advantage of a tailwind.

The highway was fairly quiet and before long we were back at the turnoff to Stanley, and having completed a circle, made our way to Wynyard to visit the laundrette. With little parking out the front Joanne filled the machine to do it's thing while we went down to the jetty to sit in the sun and look at the boats while the washing was happening. But...the wind was so strong, and we were parked near some very bendy gum trees that were showering us with leaves and twigs, so we moved and parked outside some houses in the same street as the laundry.

Some 30 minutes later, and with a bag of wet laundry, we made our way out of town and back to Cooee Point. Our previous spot was taken but we managed to find another nice spot with almost the same view to reverse into. Leaving enough room to put the clothes line up behind the rig we enjoyed yet another ocean and rocky foreshore view out of our back window while the wind tried to blow us all into the sea.

Monday 04 March 2024

Leaving Cooee Point after topping up our water, we headed to Forth for a look at the town and the free camp at the recreation reserve, which is a popular spot for people to stop at after coming over on, or before going over on the Spirit of Tasmania.

Taking a back road we made our way to Wilmot for a look before taking the steep winding road down to Gowrie Park at the base of Mount Roland where we intended to stop for a few days while we explored the area without the house on the back.

Gowrie Park is not much of a place, but it has a nice concrete area near a nice picnic park, and toilets for $10 a night. With four other campers in, we managed to snag the corner of the concrete for a camp and that meant we had the best of the sun for warmth, and for solar. The concrete will take about 10 rigs if they all park like in a caravan park, and there is a grassed area next to it as well.

Tuesday 05 March 2024

This morning we took a drive and went up to a lookout on the side of Mount Roland before taking the very winding road back up the hill where we turned off and did a circuit tour, passing through Promised Land (which not very promising) and then Nowhere Else, which really was nothing at nowhere, before passing through Barrington and then to the Mural town of Sheffield before returning to our camp at Gowrie Park. A pleasant days drive around the area and all mostly within sight of Mount Roland.

Wednesday 06 March 2024

Leaving Gowrie Park this morning we made our way up and down the very narrow winding, steep (in both directions) road before eventually turning off towards Cradle Mountain. Once up on the top we were passing through grassland meadows and bush that reminded us very much of the Victorian high country.

Pulling into the visitor information center we viewed the packed car park, and a line of motorhomes, whiz bangs and sprinter vans to make any camping show proud. Heading down the back towards where he helicopters take off from and where some caravans were and found a reasonably level spot by parking long ways over the rainwater channel and near an open area where the tree's that were along the carpark would give us early and all day sun.

Locking up and heading out for the day we stopped for a chat with some people in a motorhome. They told us there were plenty of overnighters and that nobody had any trouble, which was handy to know.

The visitors center was in full swing and so after buying our bus pass, which we pleasantly found out is valid for 72 hours, before boarding one of the hop on, hop off buses that go every 15 minutes from 8 and to 5 pm. The commentary was helpful as the driver navigated the narrow, winding road (that also needs some maintenance) and stopped at each stop to let people on and off, ensuring that no more than the correct number were onboard at any time.

Some 20 minutes later we got off at the Cradle Lake information center before heading out to walk around Dove Lake, all 6 km's of it!

The track was fairly good, up hill, down dale, rough, boardwalk and everything in between as it followed the shoreline. Stopping at the lookout for a rest and some photos, we probably should have turned back and gone to the boat shed, but we continued on, eventually arriving at the boat shed, along with the other half of Australia. We took some photos and then headed back to camp on the next available bus, and were feeling every step of the walk.

The walk around the lake is a nice walk and has some nice places to see things and to stop for a rest of a bite to eat etc, but to be totally honest, unless you really want to do the walk, you can just go to the lookout (to the left of the lake) or to the boat house (to the right) and see the mountain and the lake nicely enough from both.

Cradle Mnt

Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain from the Lookout

There is very limited car parking at Dove Lake (about 8 or so) and absolutely nowhere else within cooee to park, so taking the bus is ideal. You can drive there but you must follow a bus as they talk to each other on the radio to let the other buses know at which marker they are, whether they are coming into a marker or stop, when they are leaving and if they are holding short to let a bus past. But, if the car park is full then you have to go back to the Ronney Creek parking area of the visitors center because there is absolutely no tolerance for parking anywhere else.

But after a rest we unhooked our 5er and as the buses had stopped, drove to the lake for sunset. We were lucky to get a park, especially as many people doing long walks leave their cars there while they are away. Sunset was a fizzer, but we had the place to ourselves, so that was a bonus. Sunset over we headed back and spent a very restless night because our bodies wouldn't relax after the big walk today.

Cradle Mtn Sunset

Not much of a sunset but with nobody around it was nice to have to ourselves

 

Thursday 07 March 2024

6 am and the alarm went off, so it was time to get up and head back to Dove Lake for sunrise, and hopefully back again before the buses start bringing the hoards to spoil the view. Sunrise wasn't much, and so by just after 7 am it was time to head back, and in doing so beat the buses.

Cradle Mtn Surise

Dove Lake Sunrise

Breakfast over we locked up and headed off to catch a bus to another walk, albeit a shorter one. Being so early the bus was almost empty. We got off at the Ronney Creek stop and carpark where the Overland track starts, and began the walk along the boardwalk. Wombats can be seen along here at dawn and dusk, and even though we were early, they were all tucked up in their burrows.

Reaching a junction, Joanne went on to visit and view the cabin and homestead of Gustav Weindorfers and his wife, botanists who settled the area and had a hand in the place becoming the National Park it is today. I spent some time getting photos of some interesting plants and then walked back to the bus stop, then up the road to photograph a scene I had seen from the bus, before we both met back at the bus stop and took an empty bus back to the ranger station and another small walk. Joanne continuing on for a short walk to a waterfall while I caught another bus and went home.

Friday 08 March 2024

There was still plenty we could have done at Dove Lake, but not being into hiking, not wanting to push our luck staying overnight in the caravan carpark, and having been satisfied that we had seen most of what we wanted to see and do, we packed up this morning and headed out and off again, this time toward Waratah.

Waratah is a small, out of the way town that looks quite nice, has a small RV park and a waterfall. It was/is a mining town with some history and a quiet vibe about it.

Heading back to the highway we turned South and down hill heading for Tullah where we hoped to snag one of the 8 sites at the Tullah Wilderness Resort where $10 a night gets you power, water and a lake view out the back window.

Word on wikicamps was that it was a first come first served basis, and with rain etc forecast we thought it would be full. So we were a little surprised to find three sites vacant. We selected one with a nice view and before setting up wandered up to pay for a few nights. And that's where it went bad. Apparently the first come, first served basis is for bookings, and all of the sites, including the one we were on were booked for the next few days! Oh well.

The lady in reception did however suggest that we might like to go up to Mackintosh Dam where there is designated free camping, so we headed out, much to the amazement of the campers already in.

We made our way back through town and then up the hill, across the dam wall, along the side of the spillway and to an open camping/picnic area just 100m from the boat ramp, and being the first ones there, set up camp. If only we had gone for a walk first!

Taking a walk later we found that if we had taken a narrow track to one side, with a little careful maneuvering through the bush and across a small gravel causeway, we could have got down to the water and camped on the gravel that has been exposed by the low water levels. A second "Oh well" for the day!

A view along Mackintosh Dam

Saturday 09 March 2024

Not quite the camp we had expected but, it was peaceful enough with only four of us in for the night. We packed up and hit the road, passing back across the spillway and then the dam will itself before dropping into and out of Tullah once more.

Turning off the highway we enjoyed the trip along Anthony's Road which was basically a scenic and slower paced short cut to the highway. Back on the highway we eventually came to Queenstown, our intended stop for a few days.

We found and pulled into the Queenstown RV stop at the heritage listed, gravel AFL ground. With a few spots to choose from we decided on a grassed spot up behind the goal posts and looking back at the hills we had just come down, and, other than a family who look like they are permanently stopped there, we had the gassed area to ourselves.

We unhooked and took a drive through town to view its main street which with the mountain backdrop, reminded us of a few places in Alaska or the Yukon in the USA and Canada.

Queenstown

Then it was time to take a trip up the hill we would be leaving town from, and oh boy, what a drive! Corner after tight corner and continually up hill with ever expanding views of Queenstown below we eventually reached the top and stopped for a look at the Iron Blow, a lookout overlooking some of the mining area and towards the old towns of Gormanston and Linda where many of the miners of yesteryear lived.

Big Iron Blow

The lookout over the Big Iron Blow.

We also viewed what much be one of the most hair raising mountain bike tracks around, and one of what the area is known for.

MTB Track

Heading back into town we made our way out of town again to a lookout. Nothing too interesting except the view was, well, lets just say it's a pity there was no snow on the tops of the mountains overlooking Lake Burbury.

Lake Burbury

Lake Burbury

Back down the mountain it was time to enjoy a rest from the days driving.

Sunday 10 March 2024

Today was an RDO from touring etc. Nothing of particular note except that it rained for most of the day.

Monday 11 March 2024

We decided to leave the van again in Queenstown and took the narrow, winding road to Straun. Arriving to find a very quaint, touristy seaside town. The place looks beautiful, even under grey skies like we had. We took a drive around town and to the golf club to view the free RV park before a trip out to the ocean and then back into town for another look.

Straun

Straun

Straun Train

The carriages for the Wilderness Steam train.

Having had our fill of Straun we made our way back to Queenstown to find the place filling up, and a van less than an awning width next to us, thankfully on the opposite side to our door. With the way the place was filling up, we were glad that we had left our awning out, and it only came in in the evening, and by morning there was only enough space for a tent in the whole place!

Tuesday 12 March 2024

With most of the other campers still in residence, we left Queenstown in the low cloud and fog, climbed up the narrow winding mountain pass which turned out to be easier that we thought, mainly because of the lack of traffic, and the morning being cool. The ute pulled us and the van up no problems, though it was mainly in 2nd or 3rd gear.

Over the top we made our way through the lush forest and stopped for a look at Nelson Falls, a waterfall I had wanted to photograph for a long time.

Nelson Falls

Nelson Falls

Photographs made, it was then a pleasant journey through some absolutely spectacular bush, complete with highland meadows and alpine bark tree's until we found the turn off into our campsite. The 90 degree turn off the highway and down towards the river was narrow and we couldn't see what or where we would be going, so we continued past until we found another entrance that was a 270 degree turn. We kept going until we found a place to do a u-turn and went back.

Off the highway we took the narrow gravel track alongside the Derwent River and the weir and found a nice open, level spot not far from the first turn in. The river down this side of the weir is rather low and the opposite bank is littered with old tree stumps from when they were felled, but the camp and the view were awesome!

Derwent River Camp

Wednesday 13 March 2024

A rest day alongside the Derwent today, and a chance to look at the brakes on the van. One had been locking up under braking and so some investigation was required. We checked all of the wheels and ended up checking and servicing all of the bearings and the brakes, which was not quite the day we had planned, but an important one.

Thursday 14 March 2024

After such a peaceful camp alongside the Derwent River, after packing up we took the short drive to Lake St Clair, which is part of the Cradle Mountain/Lake St Clair National Park. Parking up in the almost long enough, long parking, we walked the short distance to the lake via the information center and lodge.

A brief visit but enough to satisfy our curiosity and grab some photographs. Then it was back on the road heading to our next intended campsite, but not before we checked out the camps at Bronte Lake and a brief photo opportunity at the site of Tasmania's Geographical Center.

Geo Tassie

The middle of the map of Tassie.

A short while later we pulled into Brady's Lake, and managed to snag a nice waterfront view courtesy of a couple who were just leaving as we pulled in. Bonus!

Brady Lake Camp

Our spot at Brady's.

Friday 15 March 2024

Our first night next to the lake was very pleasant and we awoke to a foggy morning, and, it was cold enough to use the diesel heater for a bit to make things a bit nicer.

We didn't do much today other than enjoying the view, and sitting in our chairs in the sun, looking at the lake when the fog eventually lifted.

Saturday 16 March 2024

Morning sun and foggy lake view for this morning over, we drove back almost to Derwent Bridge where we had booked a self guided tour of " The Wall" for a look at what was a mesmerising, hairs on the back of the neck, emotional experience.

In his own words, Greg Duncan, the sculptor, writes (on his website) -

On the 1st March 2005 in one of the most beautiful parts of Tasmania I set out to undertake sculpting a wall that would be 3 metres high and over 100 metres in length.

The material would be Huon Pine.

Through an often arduous at times but also immensely satisfying journey and over a decade and half later I welcome you to visit what is simply known as The Wall.


- Sculptor Greg Duncan

We spent quite some time looking and studying the contents of the wall and looking around the gallery, and Wow! What an experience it was. No camera's or phone pictures/videos are permitted so you will just have to view the website, or better still, go and see it with your own eyes. Book online and early in the day for the best deal.

Leaving the crowds to enjoy their experience we drove back towards home, turning off at the Laughing Jack Lagoon Road and making the short 3 kilometer journey to the location of an old, but still in use wooden stave pipe.

Stave Pipe

The Wooden Stave Pipe, one of the earliest means of moving water across Tasmania

Stave Pipe Leak

Plenty of leaks long the pipe as well.

Just as we were about to leave we also had a meter and a bit long snake come out of the grass towards us. It kept to the dark parts of the grass and even passed under and out of a cattle grid which was right next to where we were standing, before we lost sight of it and we went our own way.

Almost back and we stopped for a look at the Brady's Lake slalom canoe course and the group using the course. Water had been released from the dam above and was flowing quite fast down the course making for quite a show. Competitors were working their way up stream along the sides and then practicing as they went down, eventually landing in Brady Lake.

Sunday 17 March 2024

Another foggy morning to wake up to, black swans on the lake and people camped nearby heading out on their boats looking for that elusive fish. We packed up and followed the shore of the lake, passing a small settlement perched on either side of the road, the early birds having got the waterside and views.

Taking the winding, hilly roads through the forest and more pleasant views of ferns and tree ferns was a challenge but made easier by the lack of traffic.

We eventually popped out of the forest into open farmland and irrigated areas along the sides of the Derwent River. Stopping for a break at Ouse (pronounced oose) and also managed to top up our water tank at a local park. Of course that really didn't matter because a while later we were pulling into Hobart and the Showgrounds where we had booked a few days stop to be able to see and do a few things in Hobart.

Monday 18 March 2024

A big day today. Left the van at Hamilton and made our way to the Gordon River Dam for a look via a few stops to enjoy the views of Lake Pedder, then took our time coming back by stopping for a look at the ranges, lakes and lookouts before a drive around Strathgordon and stopped for more photographs on the way back.

Peddder Lake

Pedder Lake

Gordon River Dam 2

The Gordon River Dam Wall
(complete with stairs and a cable car for the workers)

Joanne went down the stairs onto the wall for a closer look.

Gordon River  Dam Info

Information on the Dam and how it was built.

Gordon River Dam now

The Gordon River flooded area from the lookout above the Dam wall.

Sentinal Range 1

Sentinal Range 2

On our way back we took a detour into Mt Field NP to view and photograph Russell Falls and Horseshoe Falls, and to view the packed out $20 a night power, water, toilets, showers, laundry and dump point equipped campground.

Russell Falls

Russell Falls
(another waterfall ticked off)

Raspberry and Cherry Icecream and a tub or Raspberries at Westerway before returning back to the van for another night in Hamilton was also a highlight of the day.

Tuesday 19 March 2024

Left Hamilton heading for Hobart this morning, but as the camping area is down next to the creek, we had to use 4wd second gear and a healthy amount of right foot to get ourselves up the short hill and onto the road. Hamilton is a great little camp spot and with water taps, a dump point, toilets, $1, 5 minute showers and a pub just down the road, it is ideal.

Nothing too special about the trip this morning except for the beautiful scenery and the cherry farms along the side of the ever widening Derwent River.

Back in the traffic along the highway we navigated our way into town and to the showgrounds where we have booked in for a few days.

Wednesday 20 March 2024

One again the fridge had been playing up, so we were lucky to have managed to get someone to come and look at it, hopefully this time, it is fixed and the last time that we need to get a fridge doctor out.

So after the fridge doctor had left and while the fridge cooled itself down again, we took off and drove to the top of Mount Wellington where we, and quite a few others, enjoyed the views over Hobart and the surrounding areas, all the while being blasted by a very cold wind, and sleet. The sensor on the car said it was 4 deg C.

Interesting fact about Mt Wellington. Due to the electronic transmitters and equipment at the top, many vehicle door remotes won't work up there. There's even a sign in the observation post telling you about it and how to overcome the problem. Our remotes certainly didn't work, and neither did the instructions on how to get them to, so we were most thankful for also having a key entry to the drivers door to unlock the vehicle.

Mt Wellington

A view over Hobart from atop the Trig Marker on the top of Mount Wellington

Derwent meets the sea

Where the Derwent River meets the Sea from atop Mount Wellington.

Leaving the top of Mount Wellington we took our time coming down the narrow road and then, once at the bottom, decided to take a back street tour back to our rig following Miss Google Maps. Well, the way we went we sure saw a lot of Hobart (which was actually good), but we reckon Miss Google must have started happy hour a bit early. But it was fun, and quite the tour.

Fish and chips for two, two potato cakes, two dim sims and two cans of soft drink from the chip shop not far from the showgrounds was a bargain at $20 and so that was tonight's meal out!

Thursday 21 March 2024

Today was our day to explore the City of Hobart. Taking the short walk to the bus stop and catching the bus into the City was the first order of the day. $4.20 total for the two of us and half an hour later we were in town. Finding the information center we bought tickets for the open top double decker bus tour and hopped on, upstairs near the front of course.

The City tour took about 90 minutes in total and showed us all of the sights. The narrow streets and cars parked made for an interesting trip and the driver did an excellent job. The recorded information was pretty good and the driver corrected anything that was not quite right.

Tour over we found The Mall, watched the Cat & Fiddle animated clock do it's thing, had some lunch and then, as our tickets were for 24 hours, decided to take the tour again, just because we could. This time however, we had front row seats up top which made things a little better.

Cat and Fiddle

Tour over we found the regular bus stop and made our way back home, tired, but happy that we had seen much of the City.

Friday 22 March 2024

Another day to explore, but not before we moved to the site next door. Having decided to stay a couple more days we tried to rebook the same site, but it had been taken, so we just booked the one next door and moved in this morning. Move over, it was time to hit the City again, though this time we took the ute.

Joanne wanted to explore the old houses and streets a bit more and also visit the Convict Female Factory historic site, so having the ute to go where and when we pleased made this a lot easier.

Once in the City we just followed pretty much the same route as the bus, and had the chance to take some other streets, stop and get photos of things we couldn't on the bus and generally explore at our own pace.

Joanne took the self guided tour of the convict Female Factory and said it was quite interesting, then it was time to head back for some lunch and planning our escape from Hobart, and our next destination on Sunday.

Saturday 23 March 2024

Today was market day, Salamanca Market day to be exact. We took the short walk to the Number 23 bus stop and caught the bus along with two other couples from the campground, and a short while later we were getting off in the City.

Walking the few blocks to the market, cutting through the grounds of Parliament House and we were there, along with the throngs of others, none of which know how to walk on the same side they drive on!

Up and down the rows of stalls in what is described as the biggest outdoor market in Australia we went. Lots to look at but nothing we wanted, so, we finished out lap and took a walk over to the marina for a look at the sailing vessels and one of the Piers before heading back up to the bus stop and heading back in time for lunch, and to put a load of washing on.

Lunch over and the washing hung out to dry, we took a drive around a 30 odd kilometer circuit for a look at Bridgewater and Otago, and the remains of the Barque Otago itself, before heading back home.

Barwu Otago

The story of the Otago

Barque Otago Remains

The remains of two, but judging by the size, the one at the back is the Otago.

Sunday 24 March 2024

Leaving Hobart today, and the thought of not hearing a certain large hardware store moving its stock around in the early hours of the morning, and the seemingly constant wail of emergency vehicle sirens is most delightful. To be fair, we picked the site that backed onto the hardware store, but, we wont miss the early morning wake up call.

The trip South out of Hobart was certainly hillier than we had anticipated, but being a Sunday the traffic was lighter which was a bonus. We ascended and then descended into the Huon Valley, the housing and then the bush being replaced by farming and apples!

Huonville was a busy little place even for a Sunday, and after a brief stop in town we continued on South, stopping at Franklin for Joanne to look at a market and for me to get some photos along the Huon River which was next to where we had stopped.

Huon River Boats

Boats moored along the Huon River at Franklin

Market and photos over we continued down the winding road and pulled into the CMCA RV park at Geeveston. Greeted by the very nice caretaker we then found ourselves a site and settled in for the rest of the day.

Monday 25 March 2024

Today was a terrible weather day and with exceptionally strong winds and rain, we just hunkered down for the day.

Tuesday 26 March 2024

The weather eased a bit and so we headed South once more, this time heading for Cockle Creek. On the way we passed through a few small places which were not much more than a few houses in the locality, until we got to Dover, a small seaside town with some nice views out over the harbour and quite a few nice houses, also with views, throughout.

Onto Strathblane and then we took a turn off to check out Southport, somewhere we thought might be worth a look. It's a small locality with a store and caravan park, a wharf and houses along the shore, certainly not what we were expecting.

Back on the main road again we went through the localities of Lune River and Ida Bay, where there used to be a narrow gauge railway to carry tourists, sadly closed these days. Not far out of Ida Bay the road turned to dirt, hard pack gravel and then mush and potholes as it made its way through the bush.

We checked out a few of the camping areas in the National Park, eventually setting up camp in the middle of the clearing at the Catamaran Boat Ramp on the shores of Recherche Bay. This was reported to be the best camp for sun (despite the weather) and for our solar to charge our batteries.

Leaving the house in camp with three other campers nearby, we continued along the road towards Cockle Bay where we viewed the other possible campsites. The only camps suitable for a rig our size were taken and the others, well, good for camper trailers and small rigs.

We got to the end of the road and took the short walk to the end where we viewed the Baby Whale sculpture, a nod to the past history of the place when the ocean was red with blood from the whales harvested in the Southern Ocean. Thankfully, it is now a more serene place to be.

Cockle Creek Whale

Whale Sculpture.

Rain and wind squalls coming through all the time helped us retreat to the car and back to the Ranger station at Cockle Creek. Sun one minute, rain the next, we took a little time to view the tidal creek and a small walk alongside it we managed some more photographs and then made our way back to camp.

Cockle Creek Side

Cockle Creek inland side.

Cockle Creek Rain

Rain during our short walk alongside the creek.

Cockle Creek Oceanside

Where Cockle Creek and Recherche Bay meet.

So with the sightseeing over we made our way back to camp for the rest of the day.

Wednesday 27 March 2024

We are not sure what we thought this area would be like, but suffice to say, we didn't think too much of it. Maybe it was the weather, maybe it was the campsite(s), we don't know, so we made our way back towards Geeveston a day early. Of course, stopping on the way back at Finns Beach, where we should have camped, and wishing we had. We even left and came back to it but in the end decided not to because of the weather. Next time!

Retracing our way back to camp, we drove around the small town of Dover for a better look and then arrived back at Geeveston, found a new site to camp on and set up to get ready for a big day tomorrow.

Thursday 28 March 2024

The alarm went off at 5.30am, we got up, grabbed our gear and while it was still dark, no doubt woke a few campers up as we left camp at 6am heading for Bruny Island.

We have learn 't that in Tassie, everything is not far away, but it takes you forever to get there. Though, with the lack of traffic this morning we covered the distance to Kettering via Huonville in just over an hour, arriving at the ferry terminal just as the 7am ferry left.

So we missed the boat, but we were first in line for the next! Finally the ferry arrived and off loaded its cargo, and we got to drive on and park right at the front for the short 15 minute ride across the D'entrecasteaux Channel.

Bruny Ferry

It's a wonky photo not too much weight on one side of the ferry :-)

With up to 30 vehicles on the ferry the drawback of being the first off is the traffic behind you all wanting you to go faster, but they soon got the message that we were not going to go fast just because they wanted to.

We had decided to go as far South as we could or wanted to and then work our way back and then go up North so that our last stop was in fact the ferry. This strategy also got rid of most of the annoying traffic and allowed us to take our time a bit more.

We did however, stop at the lookout over The Neck on our way South as the sun was perfect for photos, and the crowds were not there yet.

Parked up we started to climb the wooden steps to the top of the sand dune, and along with being puffed from the climb, the view took whatever breath we had left. The steps take you up to the top for the view, but also over the top of a Penguin colony.

Bruny Neck

Looking South along The Neck.

Leaving the penguins to sleep, we counted the steps as we went down (200) and then checked out the camping spot at the other end of the neck.

Making our way South we stopped in for a look at Adventure Bay, a place where it seems that all of the explorers of yesteryear including Tasman - 1642, Furneaux - 1773, Cook - 1777, Bligh - 1777, 1788, 1792 and 1809, D'Entrecasteaux - 1792 and 1793, Bass and Flinders - 1798, Baudin - 1802 ended up finding and using during their voyages

There is a small brick building called the Bligh Museum and of course the jet boat tours that take you down the rugged coast to see what these explorers saw.

Lots of nice, small houses perched along the coastline though here on ever vantage point and a caravan park that has caravans parked next to and amongst the old vans and hard extensions that probably came here in the 1940's when the place was not as popular as it is today.

Just out of town we took what we thought was going to be a good short cut across to the other side of the island, but when we got to the sign that said "End of Council maintained road" we knew we were in for some fun!

The road took us up and over Mt Mangana via a reasonable 4wd track, and one that while we might have got through towing, we would not recommend doing so. We did however, find a nice lookout with a view over Cloudy Bay.

Bruny Lookout

Looking down on Cloudy Bay which was living up to its name today.

Eventually making our way down the other side we turned off and headed down the dirt road to the Bruny Island Lighthouse. Here we climbed up the hill to the lighthouse to see the view and to get some photographs. We did consider the lighthouse tour ($20 a head) but didn't end up doing it.

Bruny Lighthosue

The lighthouse from a roadside lookout.
(The old lighthouse to the right is no longer used because of the new, solar, automatic one on the left is in use)

Bruny Light Rear

One of the views from the rear of the lighthouse.

Bruny Lightkeepers

The view from the rear of the lighthouse keepers cottages.

Back down at the lighthouse keepers cottages we viewed the small museum in the old relief light keepers cottage before heading back up the dirt road (Bruny has a quite a few of these) to the settlement of Alonnah where we viewed the free camp behind the pub (best camp on the island) and then had lunch sitting on the tailgate looking back at the main island, Tassie. Or is that the Big Island?

Lunch over we headed North, back past The Neck and stopping at the Bruny Island Cheese and Beer Co. We had seen the owner Nick Haddow on the SBS series The Gourmet Farmer and wanted to see his set up and taste his cheese, which we did, and even bought a couple of pieces.

Heading North once more, and not far from the ferry terminal, we turned off and headed along the dirt road that pretty much goes all around the North end of the island.

With some beautiful views of the surrounding coast we eventually found ourselves at the small village of Dennes Point. Viewing the houses and the boats in the harbour before continuing on, stopping for a brief look at the site of the old Quarantine Station and then we were back at the ferry.

On the way over we were at the front of the line, on the way back we were at the back, and second last vehicle onboard. Arriving back in Kettering we were the last vehicle off because the driver of the vehicle in front was asleep and had to be woken up but the ferry crew so they and we could get off ready for the next lot to be loaded.

The trip back to camp was fairly uneventful and by the time we got back we were both quite tired. It had been a long, busy day, covering 303 kilometers by the time we got back around 4pm, and although Bruny was nice, we don't think we need to rush back again.

Friday 29 March 2024

Rest Day :-)

Saturday 30 March 2024

Another day of exploring today. Heading North to Huonville we turned off and followed the coast to Glaziers Bay where we viewed the now closed Fat Pig Farm, home and business of The Gourmet Farmer from the SBS Series. Then it was time to enjoy some more of the coastline and onto the touristy Cygnet. A nice looking place but way too much of a tourist trap for us.

Leaving Cygnet we followed the coast some more, and stopped in Gordon at the free camp next to the river for lunch. Being a weekend it was very busy, but would be nice at any other time.

Lunch over it was onto Woodbridge, a small but very pleasant little village right on the water, and then a climb up and over the hill, on a road we were glad we didn't have the van on behind us. Much of the Tasmania we have seen is like England, narrow roads and similar in the countryside, and possibly the weather as well.

Back at Huonville we took another circuit, this time up to Judbury to see the farm that the Bruny Island Cheese Co have, and from which they make their cheese. Looking at Google Maps, it's a 68 kilometer trip, including a ferry ride to get the milk to the cheese maker!

Back at Huonville via a small roadside stall for homemade pastries, and then down the road to camp at Geeveston.

Pastries

We enjoyed some of these, maybe a tad too much.

 

Sunday 31 March 2024

Rest Day :-)

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Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.

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